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Diamond education · Guide 05 of 8

Settings and metals

The setting holds the diamond. The metal decides how it wears.

From the CTJ Jewellery team, led by founder Greg Ward

Solitaire, halo and bezel rings in platinum, yellow and rose gold

A setting decides how much of the diamond you see and how well it is protected. The metal decides the colour of the ring, how it wears over the years and how it pairs with the diamond. We make settings in platinum and in white, yellow and rose gold.

Settings

Solitaire
One diamond on four or six claws. Lets the diamond do everything.
Halo
A ring of small diamonds around the centre. Adds presence.
Hidden halo
A circle of small diamonds beneath the centre diamond, adding sparkle from the side.
Cathedral
The shoulders rise to support the centre stone.
Pavé
Small diamonds set close along the band.
Three-stone
A centre diamond flanked by two smaller ones.
Bezel
A rim of metal around the diamond. The most protective setting.

Metals

Platinum
Naturally white and dense. Develops a soft patina over time.
White gold
Bright white when rhodium plated. Plating wears and can be renewed.
Yellow gold
Warm and traditional. Flatters warmer diamond colours.
Rose gold
Copper in the alloy gives the pink. Its colour doesn’t rely on plating.

Gold is available in 14K and 18K. 18K has a higher gold content and a richer colour. 14K is harder-wearing and costs less.

Matching metal to diamond

White metals show a diamond’s colour most clearly. Yellow and rose gold reflect warmth into the diamond, which lets a slightly warmer colour grade look whiter and cost less.

Questions

Platinum or white gold?

Platinum is naturally white and heavier. White gold is lighter and costs less, and is rhodium plated for a bright white finish that can be renewed.

Can I mix metals?

Yes. A white claw setting on a yellow gold band is common, and keeps a colourless diamond looking white.

See the diamonds

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